Nirmal Purja, the British‑Nephali climber famed for topping all 14 peaks in less than six months, died in an avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak that claimed the lives of ten expedition members, six of whom were Nepalese. The incident has shocked the mountaineering community and the nation, prompting an outpouring of grief from public officials and fellow climbers alike.
Prime Minister Balendra Shah offered his heartfelt tribute on social media, describing Purja’s legacy of courage, dedication and contribution as an enduring source of inspiration for Nepal.
Purja’s brother, Kamal, also expressed sorrow on Facebook, describing the loss as a loss of his entire world and his heart. He added, “Although our hearts are broken, we are incredibly proud of you. Your legacy will live forever.”
At the Small Heaven School in Chitwan district—where Purja once studied—students and staff gathered to light candles in his memory. A student, Sarbagya Paudel, praised Purja’s bravery, stating that it had set a great example for the school and the country.
Former hostel supervisor Shailendra Baral recalled Purja as a fearless, committed child who was honest and obedient, noting that courage was evident even in his youth. School friend Bahadur Panta remembered praying for Purja after the news broke of his disappearance, and noted that people around the world had prayed for him, but his fate was unavoidable.
The avalanche hit Broad Peak, one of the most challenging and perilous mountains in the world. The 10‑member expedition was caught in a sudden snow slide after they passed the 8,047‑meter (26,400‑foot) summit. Broad Peak’s history of difficult ascents is well documented, with numerous climbers losing their lives over the years.
Purja’s profile denting his mountaineering hero status. During his tenure in the British military he served 16 years, including 10 in the special forces, and earned an MBE from Queen Elizabeth II in 2018 for his high‑altitude achievements. He was the first Gurkha to summit Everest while serving in the British Army, and survived the dug-out status of other elite climbers. His fame, however, coincided with new allegations that surfaced in 2024, including sexual assault claims by two women—one involving a hotel incident and the other an expedition in 2022—to which Purja denied through legal counsel.
Purja’s demise stirs deeper questions about the safety and ethics of high‑altitude climbing. Meanwhile, Nepal remembers him as a nation’s champion whose legacy will continue to inspire future generations of climbers, a sentiment echoed widely across social media groups and commemorative vigils.
