As the wig industry gains momentum in India, drag artist Zeeshan Ali and hair collectors like Kolachi Venkatesh emphasize the cultural shift and economic disparity within a billion-dollar market, calling for improved value addition and innovation.
The Golden Opportunity: India's Surging Wig Industry
The Golden Opportunity: India's Surging Wig Industry
The evolving perception of wigs in India highlights a thriving industry led by dedicated artisans, offering economic potential and redefining beauty norms.
The world of wigs in India is evolving, with increasing acceptance and demand transforming a traditionally niche market into a booming industry. For drag artist Zeeshan Ali, wigs are not merely accessories; they are intrinsic to his craft. With about 45 wigs at his disposal, Ali adapts them to shift into various characters during performances. “Trying on the right wig empowers me to command the stage,” says the Mumbai-based artist, who has performed across the country for over a decade.
Historically, Ali faced hurdles due to the limited availability of wigs in India; many had to be imported, or he resorted to crafting makeshift solutions from available materials such as wool and fabric. Today, however, societal perceptions are shifting. “Wigs have transcended traditional users like drag artists and actors; many straight women are now embracing wigs as a form of self-expression,” he adds.
India dominates the global wig market, supplying a staggering 85% of human hair utilized in wig production. Kolachi Venkatesh, a hair collector from Chennai, has been at the forefront of this industry for 20 years, following in his parents' footsteps as a hair picker. “Hair collected from households and salons is often viewed as scrap but is, in fact, a goldmine,” he asserts. Venkatesh explains that pickers can earn meager amounts ranging from $0.59 to $6 daily, significantly below the minimum wage in rural areas, while traders like him buy non-Remy hair from pickers for between ten cents and a dollar per kilogram.
With most of the hair collected in India shipped to China for wig manufacturing, the opportunity for development within India remains significant. Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil, the industry's promotional body, highlights that despite China boasting a $5-6 billion wig-making industry with numerous factories, India is still lagging in value addition. “We need governmental support to enhance investment for hair processing and manufacturing technology,” he says.
One business making strides in this sector is Diva Divine Hair, co-founded by Nidhi Tiwari in New Delhi in 2009. Their goal has been to produce high-quality extensions and wigs catering to a growing demographic of women experiencing hair loss and thinning. Tiwari notes changing social norms have fostered open discussions about wigs, previously shrouded in stigma. Advanced manufacturing techniques, such as 3D-printed wigs and better materials, have also made wigs more appealing and adaptable.
George Cherion from Raj Hair International discusses the increasing allure of 'Temple' or 'Remy' hair – a premium option harvested from Hindu temples, valued for its natural quality. The company has invested in technology that minimizes waste and enhances processing efficiency, thereby allowing growth in business even amid disparity in earnings at lower levels of the hair collection supply chain.
As the demand for Indian hair soars globally for its texture and quality, figures like Zeeshan Ali view this surge as an opportunity for greater local innovation. “I envision the day more affordable Indian wigs can register a wow factor with cutting-edge designs," he shares. The challenge remains to bridge the gap between collectors and manufacturers, ensuring that high-quality wigs crafted from India can truly thrive in the global market.
